“you can either be a part of the problem or you can be the solution”
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adopt-gym-rat
Please please please please read this article through if you’re a climber.
“In the climbing community the word “growth” is met with mixed reactions…
The other group, measures climbing in different terms and equate the word “growth” with the term “impact”, as in more climbers means more people at the crag, which in turn, in their eyes, means loud mp3 players, trash, spray downs, and environmental impact.
This second group may not be too far from the truth, but instead of filling their blog with pessimistic ideologies or endlessly trolling forums promoting their negative agenda perhaps they should consider offering a solution and not adding to the problem by becoming a “mentor””
“As the flashing headlines state you can either be a part of the problem or you can be the solution. And, if climbing is going to continue to grow, it needs to do so responsibly and everyone that is a part of the community is directly accountable for its direction.”
This is exactly what I’m trying to do with my group. This is why I want as many climbers as possible to come out climbing with the members who have been in the climbing community for many years. This is why I want many experienced climbers to host as many event as possible.
There are many ways to do this, and the group is the way I’m taking a part of the community to be accountable for its direction.
“Being young and stupid” isn’t much excuse for anything. “I’m a small tiny part of the whole picture” isn’t true at all.
We all can make impact.
Let’s make a good one.
climbing video?
It is hard to make a good climbing video. Let’s face it, if you don’t know anything about climbing, you can’t see why these climbers are screaming to get to the next hold and stick on it.
So why do you want to watch it?
Moves like “Fist accent” (which I haven’t watched. If I did, I will probably never lead climb again.) can deliver the climbers’ passion to this sport we are so addicted to. Your reaction can tell you a lot of about your attitude towards climbing. You’d simply think these people are crazy or you KNOW what drives them. I went to the film festival with the group last year, and when a climber commented about what makes climbing to appealing to him, I said, “OH dude, so true…” If something similar to that crossed your mind while you’re watching some sort of climbing film…
Congratulations, a good chance you’re addicted to climbing already.
How about just short videos from comp or “So-and-so and what’s-his-face crashing V13 in that-crag-you-have-to-make-6-figures-to-get-to-it!!!!!
The reasons why I watch it….
It takes you to places that I’ve never been. Climbing has taken me to places that I’d never gone physically, mentally, emotionally, and geologically. These short climbing videos can take me there or make me want to take myself there. The level of climbing, the gorgeous national parks, incredible rock formations, physical and mental strength,…
When I watch a good climbing video, my palm sweat and my heart beats crazy. Mentally, I’m already there. You watch the moves and you know what it takes to make that crazy move. YOU WANT THAT. When your mind in that mode, you take in so much from a 4min video. So much beta, how to balance your body, how to flag your legs, what level of strength it takes, how to control your fear, what level determination takes to project a rout or problem regardless of your climbing level, etc, etc, etc,
My mind goes into training mode. I haven’t really trained for climbing or any other sports before. This year, finally, when I go into the gym, and I look for problems that helps me to send my projects in Yosemite, Castle Rock, Mortar Rock…
So if your climbing has been taking you to the places you’d never been or making you want to go places you’ve never thought to be, start watching these little well made climbing videos.
Start with “like” the Dead Point Magazine in facebook or get RSS from the site.
and let your climbing addiction lead your way!
What to bring for food for a long climbing day
Clif bar is a staple item at crags. Everyone got a couple of them in their backpack or even chalk bucket at all time. I personally like Luna bar better. It’s a lot tastier than Clif bar.
My all time favorite is “Banana peanut butter sandwich”. I make them with old fashioned peanut butter. Peanut butter on whole grain bread seems to be a popular item among long distance runners. So why not long day at crag? Banana helps you to get healthy sugar boost to get over that crux. I’ve brought a peanut butter jar and bread and that seems to work well, too.
Snacking small things whole day is a lot better plan than bringing a big lunch and eat at once. That said, many of members in this group seem to be foodie, too, and bring tomato, avocado, whole grain bread, and some other fun meat or smocked salmon or cured meat that I’ve never even heard of. I’ve seen cream cheese and veggies, too.
Nuts. A bag of nuts or trail mix is also smart food for the same reason peanut butter is good to bring.
Orange. Orange doesn’t require container to carry and it has a lot of water. It’s great for hydration and sugar boost. One thing always everyone forget with the orange. A TRASH BAG. The same goes with banana, too, I guess. If you forget to bring a small trash bag, orange peel or banana peel will be getting all over in your backpack. Lovely…
If you have your favorite food to bring to crags for the long day of climbing, let me know!!
Summer Classes are coming!
Outdoor Adventure Club
The company president Rich has been our trusted member since the beginning. We share the same philosophy and passion to keep climbing community as safe as we can make it to be.
So here are the tentative summer classes schedule!
July 16 - Gear and Anchor Class at Cragmont
August 6 - Multi-pitch techniques day at Castle Rock
August 14 - Learn to Lead Class at Castle Rock
August 20 - Self Rescue Day at Cragmont
I will keep you guys posted for more details.
This tradition started last year.
The philosophy behind this is that it doesn’t matter if you already have gear to make anchors or not, I think we all should be able to identify “Good” safe anchors from “Bad” anchors. Wherever we go outdoor and share the crag with other climbers, we sometimes share ropes that are already setup. When you climb on the anchors that are setup by someone that you don’t know, you want to “KNOW” that they are safe before you climb. That’s for you own safety and no one else to blame.
Lead class. There are classes at both gyms, Touchstone and Planet Granite, and I took one of them. I think they are good classes but it’s not practical to be honest. You can practice lead belay and lead climb maybe on one or two routs during the class. I learned how to lead belay & lead climb mostly outdoor. I think many of you will find that strangely enough you feel more secure outdoor leading than indoor. So I highly recommend this class also.
Other two classes, I don’t think I need to get into the details. If you want to learn how to be safe, take them.
I hope many of you get to take these classes this summer and keep the tradition with Outdoor Adventure Club!!
which shoes?? - Today’s discussion on the message board
Which shoes to buy for a newbie?
By Diya
It depends on the size of your toe box, meaning how wider your feet are and what type of climbing you like to do.
I have wider feet and I mainly boulder. For that, I love my “Solution” by La Sportiva. It is probably the most “conformable” aggressive boulder shoes with amazing down toe. One of the climber in the gym said he can’t wear them his has very narrow feet.
For the newer climbers, until you figure out if you like trad or sticking with top rope for a while or getting into boulder, I recommend “Mythos” by La Sportiva. It’s probably one of the oldest and best selling shoes.
I see many climbers with evolve defy VTR or elektra vtr. I’m guessing one of the reasons being it’s cheap. You don’t want to invest a lot when you don’t know if you want to get into climbing or which type of climbing you would want to get into.
The problem with those shoes, especially defy VTR, they smell. Granted all the climbing shoes WILL SMELL eventually, but Evolve Defy is well known for the bad smell. The other problem is that they stretch about a size to a size and half. By the time you are really getting into climbing, you already need a new pair of shoes. They are going to be discontinued and I hope new replacements will have some improvement on those departments.
Most of La Sportiva shoes will stretch, too, (I know Miura for female are hard to break in because they don’t stretch as much as you expect other La Sportiva shoes do.) but if you have lace up, you can adjust to any time, day, climb as you wish. Mythos’ lace goes all the way to the toe.
But then, I’m a royal fan of La Sportiva since the day one. I’m sure 5.10 fans or Evolve fans have different opinions!
